Navarra--more than just running of the bulls!

If you mention Navarra, most foreigners will probably look at you with a blank stare.  But if you go on to talk about Pamplona, then a sudden look of recognition sets in and they will probably go "Oh yes, San Fermin!"  Yes, the famous (or infamous?) Running of the Bulls is what is known internationally, but there is more to Navarra than just that event.  One cold weekend we set out to find out a little bit more....

Pamplona

Also known as Iruña (the Basque name, not to be confused with the city of Irun) is the capital of Navarra and surrounded by mountains.  A large percentage of the population of Navarra is located here in the valley.  We only got to explore a bit of the city centre, but liked the mix of old architecture and alternative areas. 

We walked to the citadel and entered the beautiful green park.  The grounds are amazing and the sunshine made it even more relaxing.  What a fantastic way to spend a morning, surrounded by the old walls and walking around or sitting and feeding the animals!

 

The entrance to the citadel

Local residents of the park

The streets were beautiful and there are various parks and lovely greenspaces located in the heart of the city.  I'm a fan of just taking a stroll and enjoying the scenery, rather than wander the commercial zones, but to each his/her own!

Changing autumn colours

There is no ignoring the international presence of San Fermin, and despite not really understanding the need to race in front of fiercely strong and dangerous animals speeding towards you, a visit to the capital isn't complete without seeing some of the famous sites.

 

Can't hide the truth--there are falls and close encounters!

The city hall, where the festivities begin each year each July.

  Estafeta Street...imagine bulls and humans speeding down this straightaway....

 

...then turning (or trying to turn) the famous corner!

 

 The bull ring

 

An example of the fences put up during San Fermin--heavy steel bases set into the concrete, then reinforced with strong beams....

Ernest Hemingway--loved San Fermines and immortalized them in his book, "The Sun Also Rises." This statue is in Café Iruña, one of his favourite places in Pamplona.  He spent a lot of time in the city and fell in love with the festival, and you can visit the places he spent time in around town. 

Estella
Aside from the capital, there are many towns to visit in Navarra.  Upon recommendation, we stopped in Estella, which is just a short jaunt from Pamplona.  

A view of the city

Church of San Juan in the Plaza de los Fueros--we stumbled upon a local festival!

Stalls upon stalls of Navarran food were being sold.  One of which is chistorra, a cured sausage usually made of pork, but also can be pork-beef mix. 

This stall was actually basque, but were busily selling chistorra (and other things) in pita-like things that they were making on the spot. 

The Ega river runs through town

Olite

When we asked people to recommend places to visit for our weekend, they said Olite without hesitation.  The royal palace/castle there is a must-see, they said, so of course we had to go check it out ourselves.  It was well worth it and one of the prettiest castles I've seen, and this is coming from someone with no knowledge of constructions like this. :)  It's considered one of the 7 Medieval Wonders of Spain and one of the best examples of Gothic architecture around.  The town itself was pretty, though there were few folk about on a cold Sunday afternoon....

 The entrance to the new part which is open to visitors

 

The old part of the castle, which is now a parador (national hotels which are historically/culturally significant buildings or areas).

View of the castle from a square in the centre of town

 Beautiful towers and connecting walls separate the palace into many areas.  You can get an audioguide which explains the rooms and sections in detail.

Check out the royal views!

In a weekend we barely got to know Navarra, and only got to see a tiny part.  For next time, we have the Irati forest pending, and the northern region, especially the Pyrenees! 

Hiking through the Valles Pasiegos, Cantabria

The first post for a while, and after the shift in direction for this blog.  This one is all about the Pasiego valleys in Cantabria, an area in the interior of the province that is famous, but not filled with swarms of tourists.  The area is known for its cheeses, food (stews, meats) and beautiful scenery.  Rugged mountains surround you as you walk through the valleys along "trails", term used loosely as they are often unmarked and you feel as if you are trespassing through someone's farmland.

The Valles Pasiegos are made of 3 valleys: Pisueña, Pas and Miera.  We decided to go to Miera, specifically San Roque de Riomiera, the main town in the valley, to see what there was to see there.  According to the lady at the little tourist office, it's the smallest and least-exploited one of the three.  It's easy to see why--there aren't any officially marked trails except one, which takes you through the valley, passing by the different cabins of the Pasiego people.  Of course there are other trails, but if you're not a local, good luck finding them and figuring out how to get from one place to another.

When people talk about the pasiegos, they usually refer to the people that have lived and farmed the land for generations, raising children, cattle and caring for the land in their own way, and not having contact with the cities around the province.  The stereotype is that of uneducated farmers who resist change, don't want tourists moving in, and keep to themselves and their old ways of moving cattle from one area to another, year after year, to allow for even grazing of the land.  They may not have official education, but can probably tell you all that you want to know about the animals, plants and cultivating the land around them.  They live in little cabins, and each farmer owns several, which they rotate through various years.

Enjoy this walk through the valleys!  Please leave comments/questions if you have any! :)

A typical pasiego cabin-this one is still lived-in because the roof has been patched with a mixture of old materials and newer shingles. 

Check out the milk vat--there's even a puddle of spilled milk on the ground! :)

A newer take on a cabin

A local resident of the valley

A random mix of stone with a new section just attached on the side.  They're going for practical, not esthetics!

Huge shrooms!  Wonder if these are poisonous.... I'd love to go on a walk with an expert one day!

The cool mountain with a smooth and wavy skirt 

Vultures, we think.  There were 4 of them circling round and round overhead....we didn't stop to find out from close-range... ;)

More giant shrooms!

A renovated cabin--newly refurbished but in the old style with slate slabs for the roof

Peacefully nestled in the hills

A lost shopping list of the essentials: oil, water, boxes of wine, mandarins, cured panceta, apples and beer!

A change in direction

After several months of no updates, summer holidays, work and the plunge into other activities, I've decided to change the focus of my blog a bit.

It was all great and fine at the beginning to have this as a way to keep family and friends updated, but I think that after so much time, it's not necessary anymore.  Seems like most hits I get on this blog are from people looking for travel information, so I'm going to dedicate future posts to excursions throughout Spain, which essentially is what the title of this blog is all about anyhow.  Noreen is in Spain and will try and share information about different areas of the country.  I hope that this serves as some use to people and please, feel free to comment and ask questions!  I will try and help, based on what I have learned from my now 3 year stint living in this crazy country! :)

So here it is, my perspective of España--enjoy!

Euro Cup madness in Santander

Of course July 1st is a special day for me--it's Canada Day!  However, this year was a bit different as it happened to be the Euro Cup final between Spain and Italy, and being in Spain, well no one knew about the former event, but everyone knew about the latter!  Unbeknownst to most people, I donned red and white and we went out to watch the game at a bar in town.  Saving you the story again, Spain won quite handedly (apologies to the Italian fans...) and then it was off to join the rest of the country in festivities.

Singing, dancing and cheering in Cañadio square

Climbing a lamppost....

Costumes...

....inflatable hands....

....giant flags....

...and a homemade replica of the winning cup!

An English escape....

Taking advantage of a long weekend and free accommodation (courtesy of contacts in high places), we flew to London for a quick trip, paying visit to the coastal Brighton town--where it's always sunny, I was told.  Not quite what I remember from when I lived there a few years ago in the winter, but this time it was spring afterall....

Home to the famous Quadrophenia, Brighton is a pretty city on the south coast of England filled with students, artists and people seeking diversity and acceptance no matter your lifestyle.  At least that's my take on it.... You can find everything from a big city in this little city, and that's a positive thing!

Cool farmers' market

The Royal Pavilion, modelled after the Taj Mahal (it's not that easy to tell from this angle, I know....)

Better! :)

This pub used to be a church--I need a fish-eye lens to take a good shot, but the DJ area is where I assume the organ used to be! :)

The old pier

Rocky beach

Complete with illustrations just in case...I guess some people risk it if they are caught in the rain and cold....

Yup, there is now a "Brighton Eye" just like London

After a day and a bit in Brighton (nope it wasn't sunny--we got caught in the pouring rain on Saturday night!), we hopped on the train to London, where the sun welcomed us with open arms!  It was two days full of mega sightseeing, trying to jam in the usual things with some others that aren't as touristy, and are twice as cool. :)

I had to wear my toque and my rainjacket coz it was cold that morning!  Changing tube lines at Canada Water made it all the more appropriate... :)

Woo hoo for ethnic food fair!!  We went around trying several different things, of course...

Tried to pick up some tips to improve our (already fantastic) sushi skills

Okonomiyaki!

This man wasn't going to pose for the tourists, but he did stay there so no one could get near the sign!

Crazy street art  in the East End!

This guy was crazily drumming away and then would get up in the interludes and do some funky dance moves, wobbling and jiggling like crazy! :)

We heard someone drumming after the previous guy's show and said to each other "That doesn't sound nearly as good as the one we just watched."  

Then we realized it was a kid.  

Oh.  Well he ain't that bad then. =P

The Gherkin

Not quite sure what this was...a museum?  Or just parked??

I think they have repainted Tower Bridge since the last time I was in London...can anyone confirm this?  I quite like this colour but remember it different....

Look carefully....

Now does that mean they can go on if you tape their mouths shut?!?! 

St. Paul's Cathedral

The London Eye 

Ben and us

Random sighting on the side of the street in Kensington.. ;)

Ben at night

Reflection in a puddle

Several typical London sights

Of course! What else could they put as a title?

A paparazzo at Camden... ;)

Cool seating area for lunch! :)

Nelson towers above Trafalgar Square...

Another time when I needed a fish-eye

Woo hoo, Canada!

How boring...I wonder if he counts his steps to make sure it's always the same?

Fancy schmancy Canary Wharf